The lowdown on ladders



  •  Stuck on top



Few things are quite as irritating as dropping a needed screw or tool from the top of a ladder. One way to put an end to such mishaps is to glue a magnetic strip to the top rung of your ladder. It will safely hold onto all your fasteners and small tools until you need them. When it comes to larger tools, secure a canvas tool bag to the ladder to keep them in.




  •  Off on the right foot



A scrap of thick carpet wrapped around the bottom rung of a ladder makes a handy mat for wiping the soles of your shoes before you ascend. It will also let you know that you have reached the bottom when climbing down. Secure the carpet scrap with gaffer tape and replace with a fresh piece when needed.




  •  Don't leave your mark



Cushion the tops of a ladder's rails with an old pair of socks, gloves or a couple of bunched up old T-shirts to prevent it from leaving marks or scratches on interior walls while you are working.




  •  Boot up a ladder



Set the feet of a ladder in a pair of old gumboots (Wellington boots) to give it a skid-free footing on smooth surfaces.


























Clamping and sanding



  •  Clamps from the car



If you have an old set of jump leads just lying around collecting dust, cut off the battery clips and use them in your workshop. They make excellent spring clamps and can accommodate objects up to 40mm thick.



You could also use a car hose clamp (Jubilee clip) to secure a cracked wooden leg or spindle while you re-glue it. Just be sure to put a piece of cloth between the clamp and the wood so that you don't risk gouging the surface.




  •  Pour on the pressure



It’s almost impossible to clamp irregularly shaped items and fragile objects when gluing them back together, but there’s an easy way to provide adequate pressure. Fill a small plastic bag with sand to weigh down repairs on small, fragile items so it shapes itself to the item being glued, without undue pressure.




  •  True grit



To extend the life of sanding belts and get the most use out of each sheet of sandpaper, back them with strips of gaffer tape. The tape will prevent the paper from tearing and take some of the stress off the belts. Write down the grit size of the paper and the direction of the belt on the tape using a permanent marker.




  • Resizing sandpaper



Many sanding jobs require the use of sandpaper in odd shapes or sizes. Here are a few household items you can use to get the job done:




  1.  Pencils and pencil erasers

  2.  Section of garden hose

  3.  A wood block secured to a sponge mop holder (for walls and ceilings)
























Sealants and adhesives



  •  Cold weather sealing



When you need to do some sealing on a crisp, cool day keep your sealant pliable and running smoothly by wrapping the tubes in a heating pad (like those sold for pain relief) for 30-45 minutes before using them. Trap the heat by wrapping each tube in plastic wrap before inserting it into the sealant gun.




  •  Clean fingers



 Don't use your finger to shape a bead of silicone sealant around a bath or basin (unless you don't mind wearing it for a while). Instead, use a lollipop stick or the back of an old plastic teaspoon; both have smooth, rounded edges and are easy to hold, so you can avoid getting silicone on your skin.




  •  Improve your aim



It can be hard to manoeuvre a sealant gun in a tight spot or to properly seal a crevice that’s out of reach, but an effective extension tool may be as near as the kitchen drawer: a plastic drinking straw. Push the straw (or any plastic tube of the right size) into the nozzle of the sealant tube. Keep your impromptu extender from slipping off by securing it with gaffer tape.




  •  Mix it up



Old jam jar lids are ideal for mixing two-part epoxy adhesive. The raised edge keeps the adhesive from spreading out as you're mixing it, and the limited interior space prevents you from using too much.




  •  In the bag



If you are looking for an easy way to mix and apply two-part epoxy adhesive there’s a solution in the pantry. Take a plastic sandwich bag and squeeze as much adhesive as you need into a corner section. Tie off the rest of the bag and mix the epoxy by rolling it between your fingers (You'll notice the adhesive gets warm as it is mixed.) Use a pin to put one or more small holes in the bag and gently squeeze the epoxy adhesive out.




  •  Unglue the glue



You shouldn’t have to fight to get adhesive out of a bottle or tube. Dab a little petroleum jelly on the inside of the lid or on the tip of the tube before replacing the cap. It will prevent the glue from sticking to the cover, and you will have one less frustration to face.






















Top tips for tools



  •  Sharpen blades with a matchbox



You can restore the cutting edge to a dull blade on a small craft or utility knife by rubbing it a few times on the striking surface of a box of matches or, if one is handy, an emery board. Be sure to sharpen both sides of the cutting edge.




  •  Be carpet scrap happy



As handy as they are for repairing tears and burns in matching carpeting, carpet remnants may actually be even more useful around the workshop. You can do the following:




  1.  Glue them to the inside of your toolbox to cushion tools in transit.

  2.  Tack them to the tops of workbench surfaces to prevent scratching furniture finishes.

  3.  Staple several remnants inside a narrow cupboard to form cushioned cradles for drills and other power tools.

  4.  Staple remnants (one at a time) to a small block of wood to make a reusable contact-adhesive applicator, where a thin even coating is required.




  •  Hands-on handles



You'll get a firmer (and more comfortable) grip on hammers, spanners, screwdrivers and other tools if you wrap the handles with adhesive tape or flat foam draught-proofing strip. Hard tools will become soft to the touch.




  •  Save your fingers



To avoid bruised fingers when hammering home really tiny nails, hold the nails upright in the teeth of a pocket comb rather than between your fingers.




  •  Save the wood



Claw hammers are great for pulling nails out of wood — but you can easily damage the wood's surface as you lever the nail up. Slip a piece of thick cardboard under the hammer head to prevent this from happening.




  •  Shield wood from hammers



Protect wood from accidental hammer blows with a homemade hammer guard. Take the lid from a small plastic container and cut a small hole in the centre large enough to fit over the nail head. Place the lid over each nail before hammering it in. To stop wood from splitting, blunt the tips of your nails with a hammer before using them: simply hold the nail upright on a block of metal and tap its tip lightly.




  •  Pliers as torch holder



Trying to hold a torch and work at the same time is a juggling act that you don't want to perform. But you can still get the illumination you need if you don't have a helper to hold the light. Place the torch between the jaws of a pair of pliers and position it at the required angle. Slip a thick rubber band around the handles of the pliers to keep the torch from slipping.




  •  Fizz away corrosion



Loosen a rusty nut or bolt by covering it with a rag soaked in vinegar or a fizzy drink. Let it sit for an hour to give the liquid time to work into the corrosion. The carbonation in fizzy drinks has another workshop application as well: it will unfreeze a rusted padlock or cabinet lock.




















Exterior repairs



  •  Get a better handle on glass and mirrors



If you need to move a large pane of glass or a mirror, and wish there were some way to get a better grip, cut off two short sections from a garden hose (four sections for a two-person job). Use a sharp knife to slit each piece down the middle, then slip them onto the top and bottom edges of the glass. Never attempt to move a large sheet of glass when it is windy.




  •  Bag a lock



Give external padlocks some necessary protection in winter by covering them with plastic sandwich bags. The plastic wards off rust and prevents damage when moisture seeps inside the lock.




  •  Juice out concrete patio rust stains



When unsightly orange rust stains are defacing your concrete or stone patio, you can remove them with the citric acid found in powdered lemonade, lemon-lime or orangeade drink mixes. Wet the surface with water, and then pour the powder over the stain. Cover it with a sheet of plastic to keep the moisture from evaporating and put a weight on top to hold it in place. After 30 minutes or so, remove the plastic, scrub with a stiff-bristled brush and rinse. Repeat if necessary.




  •  Replace slipped slates and tiles



 If a roof tile or slate has slipped out of place, it needs to be replaced as soon as possible — or water could get into the roof space and cause untold damage.



Tiles are easiest — you can normally prise up the surrounding tiles and re-hook the tile over its supporting batten. To re-fix a slate, you’ll have to make yourself a ‘tingle’ from a strip of thin lead, around 25mm wide and 230mm long with a small hole drilled in one end. This is nailed in place under the slate (exactly in the gap between the two slates below with the nail through the hole), the slate replaced and the end of the ‘tingle’ bent up and over to hold the bottom edge of the slate in place. Caution: don’t attempt roof repairs without proper access equipment — a proper extension ladder to reach up to the roof and a roof ladder (hooked over the ridge) to get up on to the roof.




  •  Make a gutter scoop



The next time you need to clean the leaves out of your gutters, don't worry if you haven't got a proper gutter scoop. You can make one out of an empty plastic bottle with a handle (for example a bottle that used to contain toilet cleaner or fabric conditioner). Turn the bottle so that the handle is on top and use a utility knife to cut the end of the bottle so that the handle side is shorter. Leave the cap on the bottle and you have a perfect scoop that should fit virtually every size gutter.




  •  Foil a leaking gutter



If your steel gutter has sprung a leak, patch the hole by applying a generous coating of silicone sealant to the hole or crack and then covering it with a piece of heavy-duty aluminium foil. Repeat the process and finish off the job with a top coat of sealant.




  •  A quick fix for a loose brick



You don't need to mix up a fresh batch of mortar just to replace a single loose brick in a retaining wall or porch step — but never a brick on the house. Simply get out the two-part epoxy adhesive and apply it to the sides of the brick where the mortar has come loose. Let it cure for 24 hours, then seal any remaining gaps with building silicone sealer.




  •  Instant ageing for new mortar



If you think that new mortar joints are going to stand out like a sore thumb against the old cement, you can try 'ageing' them to match by dabbing the wet mortar with a damp black tea bag. (You may need to experiment a bit to obtain the right shade.)




  •  Pour your own stepping-stones



If you want to put leftover cement to good use, why not make a few concrete stepping-stones? Use a couple of plastic garbage bin lids as your moulds. Coat the inside of the lids with a thin, even layer of motor oil so that the cured concrete will slide out. You can even add your own decorative touches by etching shapes in the wet cement using leaves or other objects.




  •  Cover fresh concrete with hay to prevent frost damage while it sets



Any builder who works outdoors has probably had the frustrating experience of working with concrete when the temperature falls. To minimize problems, keep the area covered with hay before the pour, then after the concrete is placed and smoothed; cover it with plastic sheeting followed by hay.


















Laundries and garages



  •  Touch up a scratched washer or drier



Metal buckles, zips and clasps can leave marks and scratches on both washing machines and clothes driers — marks that will undoubtedly rust when exposed to moisture and wet clothing. Don't wait to repair the damage or you may regret it. First, clean the area with a cotton wool ball dipped in surgical spirit. When the surgical spirit has dried (a few seconds at most), cover the scratch with a thin coat of clear nail polish or like-coloured car body touch-up paint, available from car supply shops.




  •  Clean your washing machine



An easy way to periodically clean out soap scum and disinfect your washing machine is to pour in 2 cups of white vinegar, then run the machine through a full cycle without any clothes or detergent. If your machine is particularly dirty, fill it with very hot water, add 8 litres vinegar and let the agitator run for 8-10 minutes. Turn off the machine and let the solution stand overnight. Next day, empty the drum and run the machine through a full cycle.




  •  Catch the ripper



If your clothes come out of the wash with small rips or snags, it’s likely that something inside the washer is the guilty party. Rub a wad of old, clean pantihose over the agitator and tub to detect any coarse edges that snag. Then smooth over the rough spots with a piece of very fine-grade sandpaper.




  •  Cleaner floor



Concrete garage floors can get very dusty, which can make painting jobs a nightmare. It really is worth investing in some garage floor paint, which not only looks smart, but also holds the concrete surface together and makes sweeping the floor much easier.




  •  A great stand-up routine



Why go through a balancing act every time you need to stand up a mop, duster or broom? Cut off the finger sections from some old latex gloves and slip them over the ends of all those long wooden handles. The rubber provides enough traction to stop a pole from sliding whenever you lean it against a wall.




  •  Mould and mildew treatments



Garages and cellars generally suffer from a lack of ventilation so even the driest of these rooms can have mouldy walls or corners. Wearing rubber gloves and a disposable face mask, brush or scrape the worst of the mould from all surfaces, then scrub the affected areas with a brush dipped in a solution of water, disinfectant and soda crystals. Blot the damp walls with a cloth to minimize moisture, and keep a fan running to recirculate the air and to help dry the walls thoroughly.




  •  Air out a cellar or garage



You don't have to live with a musty cellar or garage. Once you've taken care of the source of mildew, combat any lingering odours by mixing 2 parts cat litter with 1 part bicarbonate of soda in a large container. Then fill several clean, empty large tins to the brim and place them around your cellar or garage. Replace with fresh mixture as needed. If the moisture affects the upper corners of the cellar, fill cotton bags or old pillow cases with the mix and hang them close to the damp areas.




  •  Hang up insulation



If you have an attached garage with a flat roof and exposed rafters, warm it up by insulating the roof from below. Buy some rolls of batt insulation plus rolls of garden netting. Push the insulating material up between the exposed rafters and use a staple gun to secure the netting to the underside of the rafters to hold the insulation in place.
















Bathroom basics



  •  Fix scratched surfaces



If your acrylic bath is scratched, you can fix it with metal polish. Apply the polish with a soft cloth using a circular motion. The light abrasive in the polish lifts out most fine scratches. To smooth out deeper nicks and scrapes, dampen them with a bit of water and then gently rub with a piece of very fine wet-and-dry abrasive paper before polishing.



Scratches on enamel baths and surfaces can be covered with a few thin coats of enamel touch-up paint (available from most hardware shops) or white correction fluid. Clean the damaged area with some methylated spirits on a cotton wool ball and then sand lightly with wet-and-dry abrasive paper. Let the methylated spirits fully evaporate before applying the paint.




  •  Fill tubs before sealing



Before you seal around a bath, fill the bath with water. The extra weight will widen the gap in the joint between the bath and the wall, which makes for a thicker seal that's less likely to crack or tear later on.




  •  A smarter, simpler way to save water



Some people put bricks inside their toilet cisterns to reduce the amount of water per flush. It's a good way to conserve water, but it can be bad for the toilet because bricks submerged in water often break up and the bits can get into the flushing mechanism. A better option is to use old plastic bottles filled with sand or water. Remove any labels and check that the bottle is tightly sealed before placing it in the cistern.














Plumbing secrets



  •  No plunger, no problem



Use a hollow rubber ball or tennis ball instead. Secure the ball in a vice and cut it in half with a hacksaw or a utility knife. To clear a blocked waste pipe, fit the concave side over the waste outlet and press down with your palms or the base of your thumbs to create pressure.




  •  Clamp down on loose plungers



A plunger with a loose handle makes every job more difficult and can even be dangerous if the handle slips out or breaks off. If your plunger handle is easily separated from the suction cup, tighten it by placing a hose clamp around the base of the cup so that it is firmly clamped to the handle.




  •  Saucer as sink shield



Before taking apart a tap in a sink without a plug, take a small plate or saucer and simply place it upside down over the drain to prevent any small pieces from getting lost.




  •  Loosen a stuck tap



If you've tried everything, but a tap handle won't budge, try pouring fizzy drink such as cola or lemonade over the tap. Give the carbonation 5-10 minutes to loosen any rust or corrosion around the tap — followed by a few gentle strikes with a rubber mallet, and it'll loosen with ease.




  •  Stop a sink or tub



If your drain plug has disappeared, but you need to stop the water in the sink or bathtub, here's a stopgap solution. Place a plastic lid over the drain. The vacuum created keeps the water from slip-sliding away.




  •  Easy turn-off



It is frustrating when you want to turn the water off at the mains, only to find that the stop tap is jammed tight. It can usually be loosened by the judicious application of WD-40 and/or heat — but, to avoid it happening again, try to remember to operate it every month or so and always close it a quarter turn from fully open when you leave it. This way it will work freely when you need it.




  •  Hose off pipe leaks



When you need a quick patch for a leaking water pipe, cut off a section of old garden hose or rubber tubing that's longer than the affected area of pipe. Slice it lengthways, and then fit the hose over the leak. Wrap it well with waterproof tape and secure it with three hose clamps: one on each end and one in the middle.




  •  Blow-dry a frozen pipe



If a water pipe freezes during winter, close the main valve on the water meter and open the nearest tap. Then, starting at the tap, use a hair dryer on a medium setting to thaw out the pipe. Be sure to keep the drier moving all the time so that the pipe doesn't get too hot in one spot; a sudden shift in temperature can cause pipes to crack. After it thaws, cover the pipe in thick foam insulating material to keep it from freezing in the future.












Clever kitchen fixes



  •  Rub out scorch marks



If you spot a scorch mark on a laminated benchtop, don't use abrasive powder; chances are you'll only remove the finish. If the burn isn't too deep, buff it out with car polish or a mixture of toothpaste and bicarbonate of soda.




  •  A fast fix for dents



If the colour hasn't been altered, you can disguise dents and scratches on practically any kitchen surface — including wood, glass and even some kinds of tiles — with clear nail polish. Brush on the polish in thin coats, letting it dry between applications. When you're finished, smooth the polish with a piece of very fine grit sandpaper, then buff the area with a soft cloth.




  •  Check the fridge door gasket



If your fridge or freezer is more than five years old, inspect its door gasket for leaks at least once a year. The easiest method is to place a piece of paper — or a bank note — halfway inside, shut the door, and then tug on the paper. Repeat the process in several spots around the seal. The paper should hold firmly; if it's easy to pull out, the gasket needs to be repaired or replaced.




  •  Add ballast to your freezer



Freezers work at maximum efficiency only when they are at least two-thirds full. If you don't have enough food to freeze, add some bulk by filling a few plastic drinks bottles with water and placing them in the freezer. You can easily remove the ice ballast when there's food to replace it.




  •  No-stick kitchen drawers



Most kitchen drawers work on a guide-and-track system. That is, rounded guides on the drawer keep it moving back and forth on tracks mounted inside the cabinet. Accumulations of dust and other impediments can slow down drawers or cause them to stick. Keep them moving freely by spraying the tracks and guides with a little WD-40 once or twice a year.




  •  Stop cupboard doors from banging



If your wooden cupboard doors always close with a bit of a bang, soften the blow by sticking bumpers at each door's top and bottom corners. Inexpensive door bumper pads are one solution, but perhaps a little too obvious for the creative do-it-yourselfer. Instead, try pressing small circular padded adhesive dressings into service, testing to see if you need a double layer to silence the bang.




  •  Repair instead of replacing



If you've ever bought a replacement part for a kitchen appliance, you are probably still in recovery from the shock of the high price. The truth is many non-moving parts can be easily repaired for very little cost. For instance, a broken handle on a microwave oven or a cracked dishwasher arm can often be easily reattached with some two-part epoxy adhesive. Likewise, a little silicone sealant can be used to patch a small crack in your refrigerator's door gasket, while a few strips of gaffer tape can usually mend broken parts on a fridge door shelf. Remember that you only need to replace parts that really can't be fixed.










Tips for working wood



  •  Make customized wood filler



When working with specific types of wood, save some of the finest sawdust produced by your sanders. Mix a handful of the sawdust with ordinary woodworking adhesive until it becomes a thick paste, and then overfills the crack. Let it dry, then lightly sand. Note: cracks filled with adhesive-based filler will not accept stain in the same way that solid wood does.




  •  Instant wood filler



If you need some wood filler in a hurry for an emergency repair on an inexpensive piece of furniture, mix a couple of tablespoons of ready-mixed all-purpose filler with instant coffee until you achieve the desired shade of brown. Fill in the crack and smooth with a damp rag.




  •  Pluck some filler



An old guitar plectrum makes a great tool for applying small amounts of filler to fill nail holes and small cracks in wood. An easy solution with no strings attached!




  •  Soften wood filler



Acetone-based cellulose wood fillers are designed to dry quickly. If you notice that your acetone filler has started to solidify in the can, you can soften it by adding a little acetone nail polish remover. Stir in just enough to bring the filler to the right consistency or it will become too runny to use. Note: it is not possible to save filler that has already hardened.




  •  Get rid of glue with vinegar



Don’t despair when you get a hardened glob of adhesive on your woodwork. Cover it with a rag soaked in warm white vinegar then leave it overnight. The adhesive will slide off with ease in the morning. Vinegar will also soften old glued joints — and even that last bit of wood-working adhesive that's hardening in the bottom of the bottle. Just add a few drops of vinegar to the bottle and let it sit for an hour or two. Shake well, drain the vinegar and repeat the process as necessary.




  •  The last straw for glue spills



Keep some plastic drinking straws nearby when working with wood; they come in handy when working with adhesives and lubricants. If you use too much wood adhesive along a seam, for instance, simply fold a straw in half and use the folded edge to scoop up the excess.




  •  Flip a stripped finish



Stop off in the kitchen before stripping a piece of furniture. The flat, flexible blade on an old plastic spatula is exactly what you need to scrape off used stripper. Hold the spatula by the blade in a reverse position and push it in a straight, steady motion to remove the old finish.




  •  Better ways to stain



Put old pairs of pantihose to work when staining furniture. Rolled-up pantihose or stockings make a great alternative to a cotton cloth or a rag. Not only do they drip less, but they also won't leave any lint behind.



A spare paint roller also makes a terrific stain applicator. Cut a 22-cm roller into three equal pieces. Whether fixed to an applicator or held in your hand, a roller holds more stain than a brush and applies it more evenly than a rag.




  •  Stop stripper drips



The next time you need to strip a table or a chair, place the legs inside cleaned, empty soup or baked bean cans. The cans will catch the drips, which, besides keeping your work space cleaner, will allow you to re-use the stripper for a second coat.




  •  Baby oil the end grain



If you'd like to save a couple of dollars, don't spend them on a proprietary sealer when finishing your next woodworking project.



Instead, seal the end grain with unscented baby oil. It will work just as well as the stuff that you can buy from a hardware shop. It keeps the colour uniform by preventing the end from soaking up too much stain.




  •  The easy way to sand around curves



Wrap a tennis ball in sandpaper and use it to sand curves when refinishing furniture. A tennis ball is just the right shape and size to fit comfortably in your hand.








Scratch out scratches



  •  Instant fix for scratched woodwork



If you notice several fresh, light scratches on a dark-wood wall unit and need to find a quick fix, just go to the kitchen, get a small cup or container and mix 1 teaspoon instant coffee in 1 tablespoon vegetable oil or water. Apply the mixture with a cotton wool ball. (Don't use this on valuable antiques or shellac finishes.)




  •  Cover scratches in leather



You can camouflage unsightly scratches in leather furniture using a permanent marker in a similar shade. Before you start, test the marker on an inconspicuous part of the chair or sofa to make sure that it's a good match. Work slowly and carefully when tracing over the scratch. Medium or fine-point markers work best overall; extra-fine tips may deepen a scratch while thick markers often have a visible ‘edging’ around repairs.’




  •  Check out the market



These days — especially with the advent of the Internet — you can get a whole range of wood-care products, previously available only to professionals. And they're all available in a range of wood shades. For repairing scratches (and filling small cracks and holes), try these:




  1.  Burnishing cream (superficial scratches)

  2.  Wax filler sticks (and shellac filler sticks)

  3.  Retouch crayons

  4.  Touch-up pens




  •  Homeopathic scratch care



Many light scratches on wood can be repaired without an expensive trip to a hardware shop. That's because masking a scratch is simply a matter of covering it up or adequately lubricating the exposed wood fibres. What's amazing is the number of items that you probably already have around your home that can get the job done. Regardless of which method you use, wax the surface when done.




  1.  Conceal scratches with closely matched shoe polish, a melted crayon or a permanent marker.

  2.  Use the meat of a Brazil nut, walnut or pecan. Rub the nut over the scratch several times, and then vigorously massage the oil into the scrape with your thumb.

  3.  Can't find the nutcracker? Rub in a little peanut butter or mayonnaise instead. Wipe it off with a damp rag after 30 minutes or so.

  4.  If that's too messy, try a little baby oil or mix 1 tablespoon olive oil or vegetable oil with 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Apply it with a soft cloth, and then buff it off after 30-45 minutes.

  5.  Cover scratches with a generous amount of petroleum jelly. Let it soak in for 24 hours, then remove the excess with a soft cloth.




  •  Wax away hairline scratches



High-gloss lacquer finishes are prone to developing hairline scratches when dishes or other items are slid across their surface. You can often get rid of these light scratches with car wax, which contains a light abrasive. Test the wax first on a bottom edge or some other inconspicuous area first, to make sure the wax doesn't discolour or damage the finish. Once you're ready, apply the wax to a soft cloth and polish using a steady circular motion.






Fixing up furniture



  •  Solution for sunlight damage



Sunlight can wreak havoc on your furniture, but you can restore it to its former lustre with plain old petroleum jelly. Use a soft cloth to rub a good amount into the wood until the finish perks up. Remove any excess with a clean cloth, and then polish the wood to renew its shine.




  •  Tea time for grime



To remove accumulated grime on wooden furniture, put two tea bags in a litre of boiling water and allow to cool. Dip a soft cloth into the solution, wring it out and then test it in an inconspicuous area on the table. If you're pleased with the results, wipe down one section of the piece at a time. Continue dipping, wringing and wiping until all the old polish has been removed. Let it dry, buff with a soft dry cloth, then stand back and watch it glow.




  •  Steam out a dent



You can sometimes repair a small, shallow dent in wooden furniture with a warm, damp cloth and a steam iron. Fold the cloth and place it over the dent, then press down with the tip of a warm iron for several seconds. If the dent doesn't swell, repeat, but don't overdo it. You need to provide just enough moisture to swell the wood back to its original size. (Don't do this on shellacked or painted finishes.)




  •  Repair veneer edging with an iron



If veneer stripping or edging is bulging or popping up from the surface of a piece of furniture, lay a warm, damp cloth over it and press down with the tip of a warm iron for several seconds. Once it's flattened, roll the edging with a rolling pin.




  •  Unstick a drawer



Wooden drawers can become stuck for all sorts of reasons, but the most common cause is excessive humidity. Although you can't see it, the wood fibres actually swell from the extra moisture in the air. To shrink them back to their original size, use a hair dryer on a warm setting, directing it to the drawer slides and the drawer itself — which should open with ease after a few minutes. For stuck drawers that are more stubborn, try rubbing the sides, bottom edges and slides with lip balm, a bar of soap or paraffin wax or beeswax.




  •  Lubricate metal drawer runners



Rust and other deposits can cause metal drawer runners to seize up or to move unevenly. Keep them running smoothly and free of rust by lubricating them occasionally with a smear of petroleum jelly or a squirt of WD-40.




  •  Hassle-free hardware



If you want to keep the shine in decorative brass handles and knobs, give them a coat of clear nail varnish or clear lacquer. This simple task will provide years of protection against the damage wrought by skin oils and tarnishing.




  •  Revive sagging cane seats



The more use it gets, the more a cane seat is likely to sag. To tighten a baggy seat, first soak two or three tea towels in hot water and wring them out lightly. Then turn the chair over and lay the hot towels on the bottom of the seat for about 30 minutes. Remove the towels and let the seat air-dry and then give the cane at least 12 hours to shrink back into place. The revived seat will be tighter and firmer to sit on.




  •  Tighten loose joints



A bit of woodworking adhesive is usually all that you need to secure a wobbly chair leg or rail. But if the joint is very loose, adhesive alone may not do the job. An easy way to solve the problem is to increase the width of the tenon (the contoured end of the loose piece) by coating it with wood adhesive and wrapping it with cotton thread or by adding a wood shaving. (If you decide on the latter, choose a shaving that's uniformly thick for a consistent fit.) Let the adhesive dry, and then glue the tenon back into the mortise.




  • Reglue it right



Most wobbly furniture can be fixed by simply regluing the parts back together — but since new glue won't stick to old dried glue, the key is to get rid of the old stuff. One of the best tools for getting rid of dried glue is the small wire-bristle brush you can get for cleaning car battery terminals. The external brush (shaped like a tiny fir tree) is ideal for removing glue from mortises and holes, while the internal brush is perfect for scraping dried glue from small tenons and dowel ends.




  •  Paste over a minor burn



Although fewer people smoke in their homes these days, burn marks on wooden furniture are a more common problem than you might think. If the scorch doesn't go below the finish, you can usually rub it out with a paste made of fine ash (wood or cigarette ash) and lemon juice (2 parts ash to 1 part juice). Wipe the area clean, then polish and wax.




Heating up and cooling down



  •  Use grandma's fragrant warming tip



Increase the warmth and moisture level inside your home on bitterly cold days by simply simmering a large pan of water on the stove. Don’t forget to periodically check the pan and refill the water as needed. Throw a few cloves, some orange peel and one or two cinnamon sticks into the pot and you'll have a delightful air freshener as well.




  •  Get lit up about draughts



To pinpoint the often mysterious source of draughts — and where you’ll need to add or renew any draught-proofing — wait for a windy day, then light a candle. Start with the window or door nearest the draught. Hold the candle in a bottom corner of the frame and slowly raise it. The flame should travel up in a straight line; when it moves sharply in one direction or another, you've probably located a leak. Repeat this process for all the sealed openings around your house to pinpoint draughts.




  •  Block door draughts



A draughty door will raise your fuel bill and make you feel uncomfortable. Until you can replace the draught-proofing, try blocking the draughts under doors with a homemade door ‘sausage’. Get an old long sock or cut a sleeve off an old shirt and fill it with sand, rice or foam padding weighed down with a few small stones. Sew the open ends shut and keep it against the crack at the bottom of the door. For safety's sake, prevent stumbles by spray-painting the draught-blocker a bright colour.




  •  Cooling energy-savers



Buying a bigger air-conditioning unit for a room won't automatically keep you more comfortable during a long, hot summer. In fact, room air-conditioners that are too big for the room they are servicing will perform less efficiently and cost you a lot more to run. And don't forget that air-conditioning may not be the answer to everyone's cooling needs. Follow these easy tips for staying cool in summer:




  1.  Use whole-house fans to pull cool air through the house and exhaust warm air through the roof space

  2.  Don't set the thermostat at a colder setting than normal when you turn on an air-conditioner. It won't cool the house faster and may result in excessive cooling.

  3.  Don't put lamps or TV sets near a thermostat as it will respond to the heat.




  •  Hot water money-savers



If you insulate both the hot-water storage tank and the first metre or so of pipes running from the water tank, you can save some serious money on your heating bill. But remember not to cover the tank's top, bottom, thermostat or the pilot flame, and don't hesitate to get help from a professional. Storage tanks have relatively short lifespans, so when your tank is about seven years old, start looking around for energy-saving replacement options. Comparing prices will help ensure the best deal, and although the initial outlay may be more than conventional tanks, you'll save money in the long run by saving energy.




  •  Degrease a dirty fan



Even occasional use can cause an extractor fan to collect dust and grime on its blades and grilles. The build-up of dirt will reduce the fan's air output and, worse, place unwanted stress on the machine’s motor.



To clean a dirty fan (which you should do at least once a year), unplug at the socket or turn off at the wall switch, and remove the housing. Vacuum off any loose dust using a soft brush attachment, then wipe down the blade and grilles with a rag or sponge dipped in a solution of ¼ cup (60ml) ammonia and ¼ teaspoon washing-up liquid in 5 litres warm water. Make sure that all the parts are dry before you reassemble them.



Credit: Reader's Digest
























Fixing your floor



  •  Give scratched floors the boot



Light scratches in wooden floors can often be successfully camouflaged with shoe polish. Just be sure to shop around and find the best colour match for your floor. Apply the polish with a soft cloth, let it dry, and then buff with a slightly dampened rag for a quick and easy cover-up.




  •  Iron off a broken tile



To lift a damaged vinyl tile, cover it with a cloth, and then give it a rub-down with an iron on a medium setting. Use slow, even strokes. The heat from the iron will eventually loosen the adhesive and the tile, making it easy for you to prise it up with a filling knife. If you don't have an iron on hand, try using a hair dryer.




  •  Tiles on the move



Do you find that your carpet tiles have a tendency to move around and not stay put? Use double-sided adhesive tape to hold them in place. You don't need to stick down all the tiles — just a few key ones and they should hold the others in check.




  •  Repair carpet



If you have Berber carpet with a number of unsightly pulls, squeeze a bit of latex adhesive into the base of the loose stitch and push it back into place. If the pulled stitch is very long, trim it down with a sharp knife or scissors before gluing. With looped pile you may need to thread a toothpick through a loop to keep it free of adhesive.




  •  Renew a burned carpet



To remove slight burns and singes from carpet, use tweezers to lift the threads and then carefully slice off the charred tips with sharp scissors, a razor blade or utility knife. Trim the threads as little as possible to avoid leaving an indentation. The longer and denser the carpet material, the better your results are likely to be.




  •  Stone-cold clean



Tools covered with flooring adhesive can be really hard to clean. Instead of scrubbing, place them in a plastic bag and put them in the freezer overnight. In the morning, the glue will be rock solid and can easily be chipped off using a hammer and chisel. Always wear goggles to protect your eyes from any airborne shards.



Credit: Reader's Digest



Picture Credit: Google



 

Walls and ceilings



  •  White-out wall and ceiling flaws



A small bottle of white correction fluid such as Liquid Paper can be incredibly handy in more ways than one. What you may not know is that it's even more useful around the home for covering up small stains and blemishes on white walls, mouldings and ceilings. Simply dab it on the defect, and it's gone. When touching up glossy surfaces, coat the dried correction fluid with a little clear nail polish.




  •  Fix small cracks



Don't repaint a ceiling expecting to cover up a few small cracks. Hairline cracks need to be checked and repaired. Use a utility knife to open up the cracks, brushing away all dust. Fill with quality plaster filler and then smooth over the patch with 180-grit abrasive paper before sealing and painting.




  •  Wipe away wallpaper paste



Removing old wallpaper can be a pain, but what's even worse is contending with old wallpaper paste. A window squeegee can make the job a lot easier and neater. Dip the squeegee into a bucket of very hot water; add 1 cup (250ml) vinegar for extra-strength paste. Use the spongy side to apply the solution to the wall; then flip it over and use the blade to remove the glue. Then wipe the glue off the blade frequently with a damp rag.




  •  Cover nail holes without filler



If you run out of filler, take a look in your bathroom before heading off to a hardware shop. A little bit of plain white toothpaste should do the job. You can also fill small holes in plasterboard with a paste of equal parts of bicarbonate of soda and woodworking adhesive. Or you could mix 2 tablespoons salt and 2 tablespoons cornflour with just enough water to make stiff putty.




  •  Stick on a patch



Some people think that the lack of wall studs makes it far more difficult to patch a hole in plasterboard. But they're wrong. In fact, all that's needed is a couple of thin slats of timber about 25mm wide, manoeuvred through the hole and held in place against the back of the plasterboard by a combination of cornice adhesive and plasterboard screws. A piece of string tied through a hole in the middle will prevent you losing the timber slats down the wall. Once the slats are in place, a matching plasterboard patch can be stuck or screwed in place and damage made good with wall filler.




  •  Find a wall stud with a shaver



If you don't have an electronic stud finder, use an electric shaver instead. Switch on the shaver and place it flush against the wall. Move it slowly over the wall, and note the sound of its hum. When the shaver moves over a stud, the pitch of the buzz will rise.




  •  Secure a screw



A screw set into a wall without a plastic plug may work loose over time as the hole surrounding it expands. Take up the slack by cutting one or two twist ties into strips that are equal in length to the screw. Bunch them together in your fingers, stuff the hole and then reset the screw. If the hole has significantly widened, opt for oversized plastic plugs in masonry walls to match or toggle bolts in plasterboard walls.




  •  Banish ceiling stains



Get rid of ugly ceiling stains by putting on a pair of gloves and goggles, then aiming a long-handled sponge mop moistened with equal parts water and sugar soap at the ceiling. Simply scrub until the stains are gone.




  •  Match a patch



When repairing damaged textured coating on a section of ceiling, it's worth putting in the extra effort to do the job properly. Once the coating is level, try to match the texture of the surrounding ceiling. You can usually come pretty close by applying some gentle touches with a small scrubbing brush, a pocket comb or a dry abrasive sponge.